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Updated
Pros
  • Compact and strong
  • Easy clipping
  • Ergonomic design
  • Strong and durable
  • Reduced weight
  • Prevents snagging
Cons
  • Higher price point
  • Expensive compared to others
Bottom Line
The DMM Alpha Trad carabiner offers a compact design with a strong build, ideal for both sport and trad climbing.
The Wild Country Helium carabiner is designed for strength and easy handling, perfect for various climbing applications.
Weight
34 grams
33 grams
Gate Opening
25 mm
27 mm
Major Axis Strength
24 kN
24 kN
Minor Axis Strength
7 kN
7 kN
Open Gate Strength
9 kN
10 kN
Height
8 inches
1 inches
Length
10 Inches
4 inches
Weight
0.06172943336 pounds
0.1 pounds
Width
3 Inches
4 inches
Part Number
A318-P6
-
Model
DM0730
Wild Country

When it comes to climbing, having the right gear can make all the difference. Two popular options for climbers are the DMM Alpha Trad and the Wild Country Helium, both of which are high-quality products designed to provide reliable performance on the rock face. In this comparison, we'll delve into the features, benefits, and drawbacks of each product, with a focus on their use as nonlocking carabiners.

DMM Alpha Trad

The DMM Alpha Trad is a robust and versatile climbing carabiner designed for traditional climbing. Made from high-strength aluminum alloy, it boasts a sturdy construction that can withstand the rigors of frequent use. The Alpha Trad features a keylock nose, which helps to prevent the carabiner from getting stuck in tight spaces, and a smooth-gating action that makes clipping and unclipping easy.

As nonlocking carabiners, the Alpha Trad is designed for use in situations where a quick and secure connection is needed, such as when building anchors or clipping into protection. The carabiner's shape and size make it easy to handle, even with gloves on, and its generous gate opening allows for smooth clipping of ropes and slings.

Wild Country Helium

The Wild Country Helium, on the other hand, is an ultra-lightweight climbing carabiner designed for those looking to shave grams from their rack. Weighing in at a mere 32g, the Helium is one of the lightest carabiners on the market, making it an attractive option for climbers who prioritize minimalism.

Despite its featherlight weight, the Helium still manages to deliver impressive strength and durability, thanks to its carefully optimized design and high-strength aluminum alloy construction. The carabiner's unique shape and gate design provide a secure connection, even in tight spaces, and its compact size makes it easy to stash away on a harness or in a pack.

As nonlocking carabiners, the Helium is well-suited for use in situations where weight is a critical factor, such as on long multi-pitch climbs or when climbing in remote areas. The carabiner's tiny size and low weight make it easy to carry multiple units, providing climbers with a versatile and adaptable option for building anchors and clipping into protection.

Comparison

When comparing the DMM Alpha Trad and the Wild Country Helium, several key differences emerge. While both carabiners are designed as nonlocking carabiners, they cater to different needs and preferences.

The Alpha Trad is generally more robust and durable than the Helium, making it a better choice for climbers who prioritize reliability and strength above all else. Its larger size and more substantial construction also make it easier to handle with gloves on, which can be a significant advantage in cold or wet conditions.

On the other hand, the Helium's ultra-lightweight design makes it an attractive option for climbers who are looking to minimize their rack weight. While it may not be as robust as the Alpha Trad, the Helium still delivers impressive strength and durability, making it a viable choice for those who prioritize minimalism.

Conclusion

In conclusion, both the DMM Alpha Trad and the Wild Country Helium are high-quality nonlocking carabiners that cater to different needs and preferences. While the Alpha Trad excels in terms of robustness and reliability, the Helium shines with its ultra-lightweight design and compact size. Ultimately, the choice between these two products will depend on the individual climber's priorities and requirements.

If you're looking for a reliable and durable carabiner that can withstand frequent use, the DMM Alpha Trad may be the better choice. However, if you're seeking to minimize your rack weight and prioritize adaptability, the Wild Country Helium is definitely worth considering. Regardless of which option you choose, both products are sure to provide reliable performance as nonlocking carabiners, helping you to stay safe and secure on the rock face.