Best Ice Axe Leashes

Understanding the Purpose of Ice Axe Leashes

Ice axe leashes serve multiple functions. Primarily, they prevent the loss of your ice axe in the event of a slip or fall. They also help to manage the axe when it’s not in use, providing a convenient way to keep it close without constantly needing to grip it. However, modern climbing techniques and preferences have evolved, making the choice of an ice axe leash more nuanced.

Types of Ice Axe Leashes

There are several types of ice axe leashes, each catering to different climbing styles and preferences:

1. Traditional Wrist Leashes: These are the classic leashes that attach to your wrist and the head of the axe. They are great for general mountaineering and glacier travel where you may need to switch hands frequently. However, they can be cumbersome when climbing steep ice because they limit mobility and make it difficult to switch tools between hands.

2. Clipper Leashes: These leashes attach to the head of the axe and clip into a harness or belt. They offer more freedom of movement compared to wrist leashes and are easier to detach quickly. They are popular among technical ice climbers who need to switch hands and tools quickly.

3. Bungee Leashes: These are elastic leashes that provide some stretch, allowing for a greater range of motion. They typically attach to your harness and connect to the axe via a carabiner. They are favored for their flexibility and ease of use, making them suitable for both mountaineering and technical climbing.

Key Considerations When Choosing an Ice Axe Leash

1. Climbing Style: Your choice should align with your primary climbing activity. For general mountaineering, traditional wrist leashes are often sufficient. For more technical ice climbing, clippers or bungee leashes may be more appropriate due to their flexibility and ease of use.

2. Comfort and Fit: The leash should be comfortable and not restrict your movement. Wrist leashes should have adjustable straps to fit different hand sizes and accommodate gloves. Clipper and bungee leashes should have secure but easy-to-use attachments.

3. Durability: Given the harsh conditions in which they are used, leashes should be made from durable materials that can withstand abrasion, cold, and moisture. Look for leashes with reinforced stitching and robust connectors.

4. Ease of Use: The leash should be easy to attach and detach, even with gloves on. This is especially important in technical climbing where quick tool changes can be crucial.

5. Weight: While leashes are generally light, every ounce counts in mountaineering. Choose a leash that provides the necessary features and durability without adding unnecessary weight.

6. Tangle Resistance: Leashes that easily tangle can be frustrating and even dangerous. Bungee leashes often have an advantage here due to their ability to retract slightly.

Popular Brands and Models

• Black Diamond Spinner Leash: Known for its dual bungee system and carabiner attachments, offering excellent freedom of movement and security.
• Petzl Freelock Leash: A popular choice for its simplicity and effective wrist attachment, making it a solid option for general mountaineering.
• Grivel Long Leash: Durable and straightforward, it’s ideal for those who prefer a traditional wrist leash.

Conclusion

Selecting the right ice axe leash depends on your specific needs and climbing style. By understanding the types available and considering factors such as comfort, durability, and ease of use, you can find a leash that enhances your climbing experience and ensures your safety. Whether you're tackling a high alpine route or a technical ice face, the right leash can make a significant difference. Always remember to test your gear in controlled conditions before heading out into challenging environments.